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That isn't what the instructions say.

Hi @timbramm4650. Solitex Plus is both breathable and airtight. Breathability refers to the movement of moisture and doesn't affect the airtightness. It might be good to think of it like this, human skin can sweat but it doesn't allow air in. Solitex Plus manages moisture by transferring water vapour and doesn't need any air movement beneath or through to transport the moisture. Hope that helps.

⁠@@EcologicalBuildingSystemswhat a great answer

Hi @christophervarady-szabo1547. The timber suspended floor will be permanently ventilated all year round via the air bricks in the external walls. Hope that answers your query. Let us know if you need any further information. Thanks.

Hi @happyguycol. Sorry for the delay in this reply. Sealing from the outside is considered part of the weathertight detailing process. A similar tape can be used to resist water and wind infiltration between the wall and the window or door frame. The tape that is recommended for external use is called Contega Solido EXO, is black in colour and not to be confused with the internal white version shown in this clip. All of the other processes are identical. Hope that helps answer your query. Thanks.

Hi @sean550, we're based in Athboy, Co. Meath. Yes we supply the Gutex insulation boards and we can deliver nationwide. You can call us on +353 46 9432104 for more details. Thanks.

Hi..I'm not putting insulated board on .as it going on to battins....ply .felt .battons than half inch baords...

Hi @TheTravelTipsGuy the u-value is influenced by a number of factors including floor dimensions, timber depth and spacing and type of insulation used . Please send your details and we will be happy to provide a solution and calculation for your records.

Hi @godsbluehills, no the excessive overlap is not an issue. You don't need to cut back the excess unless it causes a problem for taping.

Designed vent openings in the sub floor void are very important and they should not be obstructed in anyway likely to reduce airflow below the insulated floor. Hope that helps.

Unfortunately there is no definitive amount of time that drying may take. Drying is affected by temperature and air change so during this process you can encourage drying by heating the affected space and ventilating the building to prevent high internal humidity.

The system is compatible with underfloor heating typically installed above the joists. Please contact our technical team via the contact page on our website to discuss the method.

Thank you, really glad you found it useful.

The video describes a typical installation of Pro Clima Intello Plus as an airtight vapour control layer on a standard timber frame wall. To advise you further and provide the right solution for your retrofit project, please contact our technical team via our website.

It is possible to install from underneath. The method is described in detail on our website here: www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/post/suspended-timber-floor-insulation-installation-underneath

The vapour control membrane above the insulation prevents warm humid air escaping to the cold floor void underneath where it can condense on the cold timber surfaces and potentially cause structural damage from condensation and mould - this is a vital component of the system. The floor void, must also be correctly ventilated and free from moisture issues. Before proceeding with the installation, it is essential to check the moisture levels under the floor. Joists must be dry and any rotting timber must be replaced before beginning work. Please contact us for advice if the ground/soil below is visibly damp or wet or likely to flood. We have a downloadable installation guide here with full details: www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/post/suspended-timber-floor-insulation-best-practice-installation-guide

@@EcologicalBuildingSystems Good answer Eco!

Good question Matthew!

Or use SIGA Majrex VCL which only stops vapour travelling in one direction.

Also come across Thermofloc Variable SD Menrane

In this demonstration, the wood fibre insulation absorbs the heat better when compared to mineral wool and polystyrene. This improved heat absorption is coming from a combination of the high Specific Heat Capacity, density of the wood fibre and its thermal conductivity. Which basically means the wood fibre warms up slower, and then releases the heat (back into the home) slower. Resulting in excellent protection from summer heat.

becase the heat from the sun is radiant heat that doesn't need a material to transfer energy. the heat inside yiur house is the warm air and needs a material to tranfer its heat tru conductivity. so some materials are less conductive than others thats why steel feels cold tho touch and whool feels warm to touch. some materials are better at storing radiant heat. in the eps and rockwool insulation do not have a place to store the energy that hits them and radiate it to the cooler air inside your home. if then at night the oudside temperature drops. the warm air isn't able to conduct its heat back out. this leats to high cooling bills in summer

The nails and screws need to be fixed to the joists tightly and not removed. Basically, when the nails/screws penetrate the membrane cleanly and all of them go directly into a joist it will be airtight. You must be extra careful not to miss the joist with a screw or nail. Any screws/nails that miss a joist mean you will have to remove the floorboard and patch the hole in the membrane with Pro Clima Tescon Vana airtight tape and try again. So just make sure you don't miss the joist with your fixings!

Please contact us for recommendations. www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/contact

As a retrofit solution, the products here work around the existing fabric of the building to achieve an improved thermal performance. We are all for innovation in the industry and have designed this retrofit floor insulation system to be as simple as possible.

Jobsworth!

The hemp and jute natural insulation has no nutritional value for vermin or insects so wouldn't be an attractive food source. The hemp/jute insulation is breathable and absorbs humidity which is key to the effectiveness of this solution. It is also a flexible insulation so it is easy to install with no gaps which prevents closed loop thermal bypass. Dave explains the benefits and properties of the insulation in more detail in the video.

Yes. And don't forget they sent kids up the chimneys in those days!

Diathonite Evolution insulating plaster was used. This has a thermal conductivity of 0.045 W/mK. A 50mm application typically improves the thermal performance of the wall by approximately 3.5 times.

The house in the video is featured on our project gallery on our website here: www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/project-gallery/deep-retrofit-lake-district-cumbria All the products used are listed at the end of this page. On our website we also have a training section: www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/training-courses Here you can find a regular schedule of training and CPDs that should help with installation and theory of how it all works. If you have any questions please get in touch via our contact page on the website.

We provided many products with full technical support for this project. But, we don't have any further details on project costings. The Passivhaus designer was SRM Building Design and the contractor was 4Site Engineering and Construction Ltd.

To apply Adhero to sheathing boards such as plywood/OSB or for timber such as CLT then no priming is required. For any wood fibre insulation board, prime first with Pro Clima Tescon Primer RP.

…. Of water or appliance leaks?

The key aspect here is that the void below the floor needs to have sufficient air flow ventilation. If the soil below the floor is often damp then laying a polythene membrane on top is beneficial in reducing rising moisture vapour from the ground. In other words, for a consistently damp sub soil then combining polythene with ventilation is the best solution.

The demonstration box is aimed at showing the enhanced heat absorption achieved by wood fibre insulation compared to mineral wool and polystyrene. This heat absorption is coming from a combination of the Specific Heat Capacity, density as well as the thermal conductivity. Wood fibre has a lower thermal diffusivity than mineral wool and polystyrene and also PIR even though the thermal conductivity is similar or not as good. This does indeed give reductions in summer overheating - especially on South facing wall and pitched roof structures.

😅😅absoluter Blödsinn. Temperaturamplitudenzahl .bei holzfaserdämmung 16 Stunden. Es wird also nicht heiß in solch gedämpften Häusern. Wir reden aber auch über dämmstärken 20-24cm

Level off the reveal (if masonry) with wet plaster and then apply the Contega Solido SL airtight tape to seal the window to the plastered reveal. Then plasterboard over.

The PIR boards would have to be cut precisely in order to achieve a full fit with the timber joists as any gaps between the timbers and the insulation leads to closed loop thermal bypass (i.e. the insulation doesn’t work as well). Our recommendation is to friction fit Thermo Hemp Combi Jute flexible insulation to a thickness of 20mm below the top of the floor joists and then fit aluminium winged trays and sit the water pipes onto this. See an image of this here: www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/suspended-timber-floor-underfloor-heating-examples

Yes I have seen similar examples with aluminium trays, but I have read this is a poor retainer of heat compared to screed biscuit mix and not recommended future heat pump. Would would you suggest for a base to sit on the JUTE or wool or whatever for the pipes to clip to to allow a screed?@@EcologicalBuildingSystems

Laying a 1000 gauge polythene radon barrier membrane on the ground below the ventilation zone below the floor joists is a good idea not just from a radon protection viewpoint, but also prevents excessive moisture from coming up into the vented zone from below ground. If there is sufficient ventilation in the zone below the floor joists (air bricks) then dehumidification (apart from perhaps some initial dehumidification) should not be necessary.

😅😅in Deutschland heißt das auch Kriechkeller. Aber sehr selten baulich umgesetzt. Unterströmte Flächen zählen 2x so schlecht in der wärmebilanz

@@EcologicalBuildingSystems Where does the excess moisture go if a ground membrane is installed - is there a danger it will make the walls wetter, especially if the crawl space ground level is below the outside ground level (which is surprisingly common in older houses)

There is some detail for pre-installation of window sealing tape on our website. The tape to use is Pro Clima Contega Solido SL-D (for internal use), this has adhesive on the underside and a second strip of adhesive on the top for attaching directly to the frame before the window is in place. Details here: www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/product/contega-solido-sl-d . Our technical team may have a video that they can share, please use the contact form on our website to get in touch.

In this video the installers are based in Cumbria. If you get in touch at info@ecologicalbuildingsystems.com we can put you in touch.

Hi David. We supply Gutex Thermoflex for this installation, there's some good info on it here www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/product/thermoflex

Yes, I've used Steico flex. Did first room 8 years ago. 140mm. Made the world of difference.

When installed correctly (following the Intello Plus installation guide fully), the staples do not cause any significant risk of air leakage. The staples, when applied, push through the airtight membrane making a small hole that is plugged by the staple itself; like pushing a needle through a sheet of rubber. So long as both legs of the staple go into smooth timber correctly, and the membrane is tensioned and supported correctly so it can't move during the lifetime of the building, it will remain airtight. The staple must be fully inserted into the timber with the correct force so it is flat on the surface and tightly gripping the Intello. Too much force (where staples are too deep in the timber) can cut the membrane and cause leakage. When the membrane is installed INCORRECTLY, too much tension or "pull" can occur on the staples, causing the staple holes to elongate and cause air leakage. Always follow the installation guide completely to avoid such issues.

@@EcologicalBuildingSystems Thanks for the explanation 👍

That would be fine. You could also use Aerosana Visconn (airtight membrane/paint) in the window reveals and dot and dab plasterboard onto this.

In addition to reducing summer overheating, Gutex Wood fibre insulation products give excellent insulation in colder environments (the market for wood fibre insulation boards is massive in Scandinavia for example). In addition to having a thermal conductivity similar to mineral wool insulation the boards, when used externally, give excellent wind tightness that prevents wind washing/thermal bypass from the wind penetrating the insulation in between the timbers behind.

Pro Clima Orcon F airtight glue/sealant can be used to seal Intello Plus to a concrete slab. Please refer to the video to see how this should be applied.

We're happy to help and always pleased to hear about your project. If you haven't already seen our floor insulation blogs, do take a look. We have detailed guides and downloads on those pages to go alongside this video. www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/blog/floor-insulation

For an airtight (top floor) ceiling we would suggest you follow our loft insulation blog and install the vapour control membrane to the loft floor and then insulate on top of that. This retains the existing ceiling and allows you to cut holes in the plasterboard to install the downlight boxes in the correct location from above (joist location not a problem). If you choose to install the vapour control membrane from the interior side, the plasterboard will need to be removed, then Intello Plus and downlight boxes installed as per the video. Battens and plasterboard would be reinstated over the top to complete the ceiling. More details here: www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/post/how-to-insulate-your-loft-with-natural-insulations

@@EcologicalBuildingSystems I phoned dupont, they said what i was saying was fine. Basically an airtight layer over the existing plaster which is then layered with pir and plaster board. i could run battens to support the downlight boxes i guess, probably the best bet.